Ubud has a reputation as Bali’s cultural capital — and also, lately, as one of its busiest towns. The good news: a few minutes off the main strip, the Ubud that drew travellers here in the first place is still very much alive.
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Where the rice terraces are quietest Tegallalang is famous but crowded; the terraces around Tegalalang’s northern edge and the fields near Keliki stay peaceful. A local driver knows the timing that keeps you ahead of the tour buses.
Slow down, stay a little north of the centre, and Ubud opens up.
